I T I N E R A R Y - Sarasota, FL > Wrightwood, CA
01/30 Flight: Ontario, CA > Sarasota, FL
01/31-2/5 Sarasota, FL
02/06 Sarasota > South Venice, FL
02/07 South Venice
02/08 South Venice > Fort Meyers, FL
02/09-10 Fort Meyers
02/11 Fort Meyers > Sarasota
02/12-15 Sarasota
02/16 Sarasota > Tallahassee, FL
02/17 Tallahassee, FL > Gonzales, LA
02/18 Gonzales > Baytown, TX
02/19 Baytown
02/20 Baytown > San Antonio, TX
02/21 San Antonio >Sanderson, TX
02/22 Sanderson > Big Bend National Park
02/23 Big Bend National Park
02/24 Big Bend National Park > Presidio, TX
Drive Ojinaga, Mex. > Chihuahua, Mex.
02/25-26 Chihuahua
02/27 Drive Chihuahua > Ojinaga/Presidio
Presidio > Marfa, TX
02/28 Marfa > Las Cruces, NM
03/01 Las Cruces > Tucson, AZ
03/02 Tucson > Laveen, AZ
03/03 Laveen
03/04 Laveen > Palm Springs, CA
03/05 Palm Springs
03/06 Palm Springs > Wrightwood, CA
013122 Sarasota, FL
Yesterday I flew to Sarasota, Florida, where my motorcycle has been in storage since last November. Picked it up today. Had a great first day with Marco and Betsy, close family/friends for 50+ years. Nice to be back in Florida, though it is unseasonably cold. Supposed to warm up the next few days. Will spend a week here before riding to the Keys and back. Photographed first story tonight.
020122 Sarasota
A day relaxing in paradise.
020222 Sarasota
And another day in paradise…
020322 Sarasota
Beautiful warm day. Fun breakfast at Ginny’s and Jane E’s Cafe, a very popular restaurant on the north end of Anna Maria Island. A two-mile walk along the beach afterwards burned off maybe 20% of the morning’s weight gain!
Photographed two interesting artists: Emerson, a prodiguous painter who works seven days a week to produce enough output to meet the demand of the 14,000 stores that carry his work worldwide. Then Kelly, an amazingly talented sign painter, painting the gold-fillet logo on a yacht’s bright, royal blue transom.
020422 Sarasota
Fishing off the Anna Maria Island city pier this morning, followed by lunch at the Wicked Cantina Mexican restaurant.
Photographed Reina, who had been very kind to fit me into her schedule to reattach the cover to my motorcycle seat. I had removed it to add a gel pad—hopefully to reduce discomfort on long rides—but couldn’t get it back on. The staple gun I brought isn’t powerful enough.
Have decided to scrap plans to ride to Key West. Can’t find any place to stay (at least for under a few
hundred dollars a night). I’ve been warned repeatedly not to ride down the Keys without having secured someplace to stay, expecially this time of year with so many tourists visiting the state.
020522 Sarasota, FL
Slow day, cloudy and cool. Packed motorcycle getting ready for ride to South Venice tomorrow morning. Photographed Jackie at her bagel restaurant. A real patriot originally from New Jersey.
020622 Sarasota > South Venice, FL
Easy 50-mile ride to South Venice to spend two nights with Jim and Jan, close music buddies from Colorado Springs, now spending winters in Florida. Caught up, played bluegrass together.
020722 South Venice
Fun day visiting old Venice. Great lunch on beach and very cold walk out on the jetty. “Want to go on a bike ride?” ”OK.” A 10-mile ride around the neighborhood! And I thought my butt was sore from the motorcycle...
Played some more music together—fun.
020822 South Venice > Fort Myers, FL
90-minute ride through traffic on Route 41 and not so much on I-75. Cloudy, damp, very cool high 50ºs to Don’s (though I’ve always called him Donnie, as he began working for me when he was only 14, about 40 years ago) car detailing shop. Spent the day learning a bit about wrapping cars and detailing. Don and his partner work on some very, very expensive cars.
Met Don’s wife, Amanda, a very pleasant lady perfectly suited for marriage to Don. So happy to see how happy and successful they are. Very fun dinner out with their friends, Ruben and Diana. Lots of photo-geek talk with Ruben, a very talented photographer.
020922 Fort Myers
Short ritde to Donavan and Holly’s house. Really wonderful to reconnect with them and their five kids still at home. Happened to arrive just as Father Hans, the priest from their Eastern Orthodox Church, who was performing a water blessing on the house. Impressive how the whole family chanted in response to the liturgy.
Fun family lunch at Chic-fil-A eaten at the local nature preserve. Hike afterwards through a beautiful, other-worldly, though creepy, slough of cypress trees in swamps.
021022 Fort Myers
Attended an Eastern Orthodox church service with Donavan, Holly, and family.Took Father Hans out to lunch after- wards where he shared his perspective on the healing of trauma (see story on page 27).
Relaxed during the afternoon and spent family time with kids in the evening. What an amazingly impressive family that mindfully lives out their convictions, their entire lives finely attuned to their beliefs in God.
021122 Fort Myers > Anna Maria Island, Sarasota
Said goodbye to Donavan, Holly, and kids and rode back to Anna Maria Island near Sarasota to spend a few more days with Marco and Betsy. Enjoyed the ride, beautiful day... the 75 day: I-75 North, 75 mph 75º, 75 mile drive.
Stopped for lunch in the very busy St. Armand’s Key circle. Photographed Danielle, who was eating at the same restaurant with her partner, Alex; both from the UK.
Uncharacteristically for me, took a long walk on the beach later in the afternoon, all the while thinking about my life living alone.
Dinner out at Harry’s Grill where I photoraphed Pam playing her sax.
021322 Anna Maria Island
Rainy day of anticipation awaiting the Super Bowl game between the Bengals (from Cincinnati, home to my family for 18 years) and the Rams (from Los Angeles, to which Nancy and I moved 9 years ago). Photographed Jason, a really nice guy, while having haircut this morning. Surprised by visit from family members, Harry and Anne, who have been vacationing nearby.
Super Bowl party with friends from Cincinnati. Exciting game, particularly knowing that my son is there. VERY disappointing loss for the Bengals!
021422 Anna Maria Island, FL
Spent a couple of hours dealing with paperwork, faxing, shipping. Lunch celebrating Valentine’s Day at the Beach House... freezing cold in the wind and shade near the beach, but beautiful view of the gulf with a happy dolphin entertaining us.
Rode the motorcycle into Sarasota to visit the Classic Car Museum. Great collection and the chance to photograph a famous person. Got the photo (page 38), but no story.
021522 Anna Maria Island > Tallahassee Mileage: 310 Duration: 6:00 hrs
Began the long ride home. Thankfully, a very beautiful, warm day, though a bit windy at times. So much fun to stay with Neil and Marion in their home, and visit with Pete—all members of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America club who help fellow riders along the way. Shortly after arriving, Neil took me on a 70-mile ride through a maze of wonderful black-topped back roads and a network of Florida red clay dirt roads. I was amazed at the scenery, the likes of which I had never seen before during my many trips to Florida. Road past countless huge plantations and through some really, really nice suburban neighborhoods. So glad Neil got me off my butt, well... actually back on my butt on the motorcycle for the ride. Photographed three interesting stories at the area’s famous Bradley’s Country Store.
Great folks with whom I really hope to stay in touch.
021622 Tallahassee > Gonzales Mileage: 440 Duration: 8:30 hrs
Very long ride today (record for me). Cold in the morning, warm in the afternoon, but VERY WINDY, especially crossing over many long bridges spanning the gulf and bayous. Kind of scary at times as I was blown across my lane almost into another several times. As I finally exited Florida and then crossed Alabama and Mississippi before entering Lousiana, I spent a lot of time thinking about what awaits me in California and the next phase of my life.
Had planned to stop 100-miles earlier today but decided to just keep riding so I can at least reach Houston tomorrow and an easy ride to San Antonio on Saturday and a rest day on Sunday.
021822 Gonzales > Baytown Mileage: 265 Duration: 6:30 hrs
Left hotel about 7:00. By 7:05 was miserable, a very damp, no sun, windy, 43° cold. Rode for an hour or so. Sat by fireplace at Cracker Barrel Restaurant for an hour or so. Rode for an hour or so. Sat by fireplace at another Cracker Barrel Restaurant for an hour or so. Rode for an hour and a half as it warmed up about 10°. Departed Louisiana about noon and crossed the international border into the country (sized) Texas. Will be in this immense country fir a few days!
Again had planned to camp. Forget it! Need a very long hot shower. Staying at Springhill Suites Marriott Hotel. Nicest room I’ve had for many years and extremely reasonable price. Will stay an extra day to rest and wait for coming warmer weather.
021922 Baytown, TX
Rest day. Feels good to relax, though did need to do some planning for the next few days. Thankfully, it seems like the weather will be good, becoming warmer each day.
Walked to lunch and did a photo/story on Hope. I was very moved by her story and sense that she is a unique strong person. Only hope she can overcome her struggles to fully realize what I am sure is vast potential.
022022 Baytown > San Antonio Mileage: 262 Duration: 5:00 hrs.
Much better weather, 60º - 73º and some sun, not too windy. What a difference! I-10, however, has become pretty boring. Mile after mile, hour after hour, scenery doesn’t change much. Road condition pretty rough in places. Traffic in Houston light on this Sunday, but amazingly heavy in San Antonio. Lots of signs, too.
I died and went to heaven today! NO, not on the highway. At lunch. At Joel’s Bar-B-Que. What a find! Fantastic bar-b-que beef sandwich with pickles and onions, a side of slaw, and of course... pecan pie. Ate with a really nice couple who had moved to Florida from California and are now moving back. Mick’s a guitar player and photographer, so poor Caitlin had to endure way too much geek talk.
Afterwards filled up with gas and met, Charile, riding cross-country, too, but on a bicycle. Has quite a story, quite a sad story.
Out to dinner at Longhorn Steakhouse, always voted a top choice among meatatarians, like me. The filet was perferct. Need the protein for the next two days riding down to the Rio Grande. Leaving the restaurant I was once again thankful for God’s second greatest gift to mankind... the COW!
022122 San Antonio > Sanderson Mileage: 277 Duration: 4:45 hrs
Took my time getting started because it had unexpectedly rained in the night and the streets were still wet. Before leaving photographed Jody and Connie on their way back to Chimayó, New Mexico, home of the famous Catholic chapel, El Santuario de Chimayó. Once again, fun to interact wth new people and hear their story.
Got a bit lost leaving the hotel with its location surrounded by various Hwy 90 loop roads. Back wheel slid a few times before finally entering the highway, fine afterwards. Took 90 for a change of pace. Not a whole more interesting but at least not interstate. Much warmer weather and a lot less wind. Passed through a lot of small towns separated by miles and miles of desolate country. Passing through one town saw a sign:
THIS IS GOD’S COUNTRY. DON’T DRIVE LIKE HELL!
I did my best, kind of.
Passed countless police cars and Border Patrol vehicles, and was stopped at a checkpoint, seemingly checking for drugs and illegal migrants. Pretty conservative country based on signs, bumper stickers, and people packing pistols holstered on hips. Camping for the night at the very minimalistic Canyons RV Park in Sanderson, Texas, only 120 miles from the entrance to Big Bend National Park, my destination for the next few days.
Set up tent on AstroTurf, can’t use stakes. Suddenly so windy I had to lay inside to keep it from blowing away. But temps way above normal, so nice and warm.
022222 Sanderson > Big Bend National Park Mileage: 175 Duration: 3:25 hrs
This is dinosaur country apparently. Big jaws assured me it would be an easy 50-mile ride to breakfast in Marathon. Didn’t think to tell me it wouldn’t ber much. Funny weather on the way. A cool, though thankfully sunny and not windy, 49º when I left. 55º fifteen minutes later. 61º in another fifteen. Then dropped to 48º a minute later. Had gotten my hopes up. But hoping did eventually pay off—was 83º ninety minutes later as I pulled into my camp spot at Big Bend National Park, even warmer later.
Photographed a couple from Wisconsin concerned for the future of our country, and then another from Iowa (husband is president of a vintage motorcycle club). After setting up camp in my shade-barren spot, headed to the nearby camp store relax (as much as one can) sitting at a picnic table in the shade, working on this book.
Photographed a nice couple and their son who had joined me. Kindly offered me a bologna sandwich on Bimbo white bread. Got to talking, the best I could in Spanish. They’re from Chihuahua and insisted that I contact them when I’m there a few days from now. Recorded Rubén’s story in Spanish. Will need to translate it, hopefully with help from Fransisco.
Cool, windy night. Visited outside of tent by wildlife: something that made a deep purring sound; something sounding pretty large. Found large scat nearby in the morning.
022322 Big Bend National Park
Cold, very windy morning kept me zipped up mummy-like in my mummy bag. With only one day to explore the park I forced my self up, dressed warm and rode out of the Rio Grande Village, up to Panther Junction, and up 4,000+ ft. to Chiso Basin. Beautiful ride and interestingly became much warmer as I gained elevation. Hard to believe but it will probably be 90º in the Village later this afternoon when I return.
The geography of Big Bend is very similar to the Sierra Gigantis I lived among in Baja. Dry, dusty, wind ravaged, barren, rugged mountains surrounding by scrub desert.
Photographed Aaron, a Neurologist from Boston, before enjoying a late, relaxing breakfast at the Chisos Lodge. Great view. Thankfully, there was cell service at the restaurant, and I was able to take care of some pain-in-the-butt problems as a result of being gone from home too much of late. Come to think of it, I’ve been experiencing lost of pain-in-the-butt, granted for very different reasons.
Strange weather again as rode the 39 miles back to the Village from Chisos Basin. Mentioned it to ranger, said very strange indeed. 71° as left 5,400 ft elevation at the Basin. 48° at 1,000 ft at campground. Colder lower??
Ranger confirmed that I had been visited last night by a mountain lion (purring, segmented scat full of hair), though estimate of the park’s population is only 20-30. Going to be another scary night, especially not able to see outside, at least not without unzipping the door and welcoming a guest inside. Understatement of the day: A tent offers a very false sense of security.
022422 Big Bend National Park > Presidio, TX > Ojinada Border Crossing > Chihuahua, Mexico
Was a cold night, in 20s. Thankfully, my sleeping bag was warm enough. Wish I could say the same for my riding outfit. Was 28° when I left the campground. Low 30s for next hour and a half, then 40s and finally low 50s as I reached Presidio, TX, where I stored my motorcycle for a few days. Walked across border into Mexico. No one asked to see my passport, nor was I given a visa. Waited awhile for Franscico. Realized that there was a 1-hour time difference, so I was early. Two hours later I discovered that he had some kind of a problem and was delayed. Will be another three-hours. So much for leaving early to get here in time and FREEZE in the early morning temps! Hadn’t been in Mexico for even five minutes when a young guy asked if he could use my phone. Got a taxi and asked to be taken to, ‘el mejor restaurante de la ciudad.’ Took me to Lobby’s for a great arrachera steak, baked potato, and a salad for lunch. Hadn’t eaten since lunch yesterday so hit the spot, the growing spot... even though I am eating very little. Go figure!
Guess if I was really concerned I could join Wiley and chase the Road Runner... guilt!
Speaking of guilt... When I had asked Francisco to pick me up and drive me to his home in Chihuahua I didn’t realize how far it was from Presidio. One of my very closest friends didn’t mind, and we had much to catch up on. Stopped at sunset for a brief rest at the stunningly beautiful Cañon de Peguis. Wonderful, absolutely wonderful to see Armida, Xavier, and Fernanda again. Had been 15 years. Xavier now a geodesic engineer; Fernanda a doctor. Nancy would be so proud; she loved these children. (Francisco and Armida had been students in one of her adult ESL classes in Colorado Springs.)
022522 Chihuahua
Staying in humble lodgings here has been a reminder of how few things are really required to live a full life. I am so glad to reunite with this dear family, so refreshed by their warm acceptance and enduring love.
I have always known Francisco to be a skilled, hard worker, yet I am amazed to see the architectural and construction work he and his business partner, Donna, are accomplishing. Really first class modern design—inspiring. Photographed Donna as she prepared a delicious breakfast. A very impressive woman raising three precious children. I expect big things to come from their business, ARQLOCAL.
Nice family dinner at the Ware Restaurant.
022622 Chihuahua
House busy early, Javier leaving for work and Armida taking Fernanda to her 24- hour shft at the hospital. Francisco (pastor) and I took a long walk during which I sought his relationship advice.
Went to lunch with Armida, Javier, Armida’s mother and sister, Irma, and Irma’s daughter, Sofie, at a very upscale restuarant.
Photographed Francisco and recorded his story about friendship, ours in particular.
Carryout dinner from famous Elotes Corn Restaurant. Hoped to be joined by Fernanda on a break from hospital, but she was called in to assist with an appendectomy.
022723 Chihuahua > Ojinaga > Presidio > Van Horn Mileage Presidio > Van Horn: 135 Duration: 3 hrs
Long drive back to the border with Francisco, Armida, and a weary Fernanda, who had just finished her 24 hr rotation at the hospital. Said goodbye wondering when I may see this wonderful family again.
Uneventful, though tiring, walk across the border, through customs, and a 1/4 mile or so to where my motorcycle was stored. Seemed to take forever to ride just 135 miles to Van Horn, Texas, where I spent the night at the historic El Capitan hotel. Very nicely remodeled, quaint, and really excellent restaurant. No photos/stories—just too tired.
022822 Van Horn > Deming, NM Mileage: 225 Duration: 4:30
Got up slowly, no rush, waiting for temperature to climb past 60º. Must have been very tired because didn’t think I’d ever get to Deming. Very boring ride, thought about a lot of things that made me angry. Nasty traffic through El Paso. Not my favorite ride of this adventure. One bright spot: f i n a l l y getting OUT OF Texas. Stayed at typically mediocre roadside hotel, pigged out on pizza. Decided I better address my balding rear tire. Ordered a new one to be mounted in Phoenix. Again no photos/stories. Glad this day is over.
030122 Deming > Oro Valley, AZ Mileage: 220 Duration: 5:00
Slow start again. Easy, little more interesting ride. Very beautiful about 60 miles east of Tucson through heavily bouldered Texas Canyon—reminded me of the boulder fields in Catavina, Baja.
Fun staying with friend, Ellen’s, mother… great chance to talk about Ellen behind her back. Photographed Nikki at dinner.
030222 Oro Valley > Phoenix Mileage: 120 Duration: 2:45
Interviewed Nikki and her friend, Patty, before riding off towards Phoenix to visit Fred and Karen. First half of the ride was very pleasant, happily riding along a two-lane blacktop, the Pinal Pioneerr Highway. Second half of the ride was very heavily trafficked, dangerous.
Great to reunite with Fred and Karen, and to see their visiting granddaugher Ahmina. Fred and I removed the back wheel of the motorcycle and took it to the BMW dealer in Chandler to have a new tire mounted. While there photographed and interviewed Scott, the sales manager of Indian Motorcycles—a little Biker 101.
030322 Phoenix
Restful day, mostly spent with Fred volunteering at the Christian bookstore on the ASU campus. Huge student body. Two interesting photos/stories.
Late in the afternoon, put the motorcyle back wheel with its new tire back on. Getting ready for long ride to Palm Springs tomorrow.